Dia de Muertos in Romerillo, Chiapas
Pueblo de Romerillo
A short drive into the cloudy hillsides surrounding San Cristóbal de Las Casas is the pueblo of Romerillo. We arrived on the second day of November to explore their Dia de Muertos celebrations. The traditions of Romerillo are unique in the highlands. At the top of the hillside graveyard twelve giant painted crossed represent the same number of surrounding communities that are given permission for their members to be buried in Romerillo.
Opening the Door
Each grave site has a large plank of wood representing a door. During the annual Dia de Muertos celebrations, families ‘open the door’ for their deceased loved ones by flipping the plank off the burial mound. Food and drink are placed on the graves as a gesture of hospitality for the visiting spirits. When the celebration is finished the doors are replaced for the rest of the year.
Traveling Carnivals
Accompanying the celebrations a traveling feria (carnival) set up booths with games & food alongside the rides. Aldo and Mattias tried their luck at darts and attracted a good sized crowd of locals chuckling at the impossibly rigged game.
10 Minutes Jumping
A large trampoline was set up and for 10 pesos kids could jump for 10 minutes. We unlaced Mattias boots and he climbed in to jump until his legs turned into spaghetti and he had a cramp in his foot. We cruised around the other booths and he decided to spend his money on a flashing plastic turquoise robot we named ‘Romerillo’ in honor of our days adventure.
Feria in the Clouds
After a couple of hours the clouds rolled up and over the hillside creating a mysterious atmosphere and when it began to lightly rain we decided to head back to San Cristóbal de Las Casas.
El Panteon Urbano
Coming back into town we stopped to explore the panteon (graveyard) in town. Well established, many generations of families have buried their loved ones in the variety of tombs. It was busy with families visiting with each other and remembering ancestors together.
Juncia, Pine Needles
A common site in the highlands, Juncia is the name for the long pine needles that denote special occasions. They are sold in mounds just outside of the graveyard for 10 pesos each and are spread across the graves and cover the ground, releasing a gorgeous smell as people crush them as they walk around.
A Day Together
Many of the tombs were silent, no one visiting them as they began crumbling. Others we lively with entire extended families eating together, some hired musicians to play their loved ones favorite music. Flowers and juncia were everwhere. While none of our loved ones were buried in the panteon of San Cristóbal, we shared in the communal atmosphere of remembrance and a profound gratitude for life.